Thursday, July 28, 2011

What does it take..?

What does it take to be a Roadwarrior..?

We've been asked that many times, and over the past couple of days, yet again, have discovered in ourselves, reasons and answers...

Also, some questions. Like, "what the hell are we doing!?".

That was what we were pondering on as we lay in the shade, exhausted and rubber-legged, after slogging up about the 8th 10% grade climb we'd hit that morning...



















We had left Da Nang under a cloudless sky, but with a welcome tailwind. Pushing south, we'd knocked out 30-odd kms by mid-morning, before we turned off the noisy, busy highway 1, and started to head in a more westerly direction, and towards the hills and mountains.

We knew we'd have some climbing to do, but having studied the maps, it looked to be an evenly graded, mostly gradual ascent... Which it was for the next 60-70 kms. The roads were just what we'd hoped for... Gently rolling, with much less traffic and small towns to take a break at along the way.

By the time we'd done around 100 clicks, we were a bit tired, but the gently rolling ride, being more scenic and less filled with air-horns was very enjoyable, and so the kilometers were passing faster.

Then we hit the side of a mountain, of which the road seems to go straight up... And thus, the tough stuff began.

How we managed another 40 kms that evening, I don't know, but we did, pushing through sheer exhaustion and pain to finally get to the top of what actually was, at last, the last climb, and roll down the pitch black hill, headlamps throwing a barely sufficient wobbling light out ahead of us, into the small town of Kham Duc.






We rounded the first bend, now with welcome street-lights into town and like a glorious bright beacon, there right ahead was a huge sign bearing the welcome words "Khach San"... "Hotel".
We crashed out hard that night, and woke the next day, aching and still tired, but ready to push on.
By around 0800 the next morning, whilst stopped at a roadside cafe to have a nice cold water, a huge moth paid us a visit...






And it was that morning that found us, 3 hours and 40kms later, flat on our backs, legs like lead, totally exhausted, half-way up a thigh-busting, crazy-legs-gearing steep-ass 10% grade ascent...
Laying there, again, we asked ourselves, what are we doing..!? And just what does it take to be a Roadwarrior?

We came up with a few answers;

-You have to have some somewhat crazy ideas and be willing to put yourself through the most god-awful painful experiences...
-You have to manage to still enjoy the surroundings even when completely knackered and barely able to stand... ( OK, yeah, at that point we were laying down, but...)
-You have to be able to take a leave of absence from work, or just quit it all together.
And,
-You have to put in some serious training, and know that it still won't be enough.

I'm sure we could come up with some more reasons and ideas, but by then, we'd come down to one final answer...

-You have to know when to make a route change!

Not call it quits, as we wouldn't do that, but we knew we'd not make it to HCMC inside of 4 weeks at the rate we were going over the mountains, so for the first time ever, we made a deliberate back-track...
A 100 kilometer back-track to be precise, and it meant tackling some of the kick-ass hills we'd already been up and over.
However, it did mean that the REALLY big bad ones that we'd slowly and painfully ground our way up the day previously became the most amazing, fast sweet downhills!

So other than it being a 280 km detour, and pretty much 3 days of not getting south, it was an interesting ride, and we did get to see some amazing countryside and small villages.






We stopped at a few little cafés and shelter areas where we enjoyed a cold soda or fresh sugarcane drink, often being surrounded by curious children, all very amused at the strange tan lines we are acquiring, or that we use sunblock on our faces...

We also got to have a great chat with a local lady, Pham, who spoke good English, learnt during her school days, so we got to answer a few local questions we'd had, such as the local weather, food and correct pronunciation of a few words we'd been having trouble with.













So now we have rolled on, back along the more coastal road of highway 1, amongst the honking vehicles and suicidal scooters, making better K's south, and still enjoying the scenery and the people we are meeting.

Ok, this has been long overdue, so I'm just gonna post it now, but will add some more new pictures later this evening, once I'm sprawled out in the HUGE firm bed in the hotel we've stopes at here in Quy Nhon.

More soon...

Cheers!

RWK.
OUT.



- Posted from my amazing iPad 2!

Location:1,,Vietnam

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Digging Da Nang.

We came, we saw, we conquered...
The steep climb to Hai Van Pass that is...

And what a climb it was. 8% grade, most of the way, we started it at just after 0900, and reached the pass right around noon.
The sun was blazing down on us, as we made our way, winding up the steep switch-backs around the eastern side of the mountain.



















Right around the half-way point, with everything feeling pretty toasted, and thighs, calves and lungs burning internally from the effort, I spotted a large shade tree, next to a running creek, so we had a decent 30 minute break there before cranking on further.
A few more kilometers later, we stopped again, at a larger waterfall and creek, to wash ourselves down again, and sit under the bridge there, enjoying the cool breeze and shade it afforded us.
A bit of luck was on our side too, as some clouds blew in to give us a break from the searing 36 degree sun, so we saddled up again, and pumped out the last few km's to the pass.
Compared to other climbs we've done in the past, 1600+ feet isn't that high, but doing in it humid 36 degree weather makes it a lot tougher!

As requested, here's a pretty accurate route-map of the journey we've taken so far to Da Nang.









Along the way to Da Nang, we've seen some interesting sights...from the eucalyptus oil sellers that were lining the highway at one district, to the war scarred tanks in the central town square of Dong Ha, some little shoes by the front door of a seemingly abandoned house, to the small fishing canoes along the coastline...







































Since we have been in Da Nang, we've had a good wander around the streets near the hotel we're staying at, and I've been watched with great curiosity and bewilderment, as I've gotten into some strange positions to take some strange photos... Spotting the drying, perhaps even discarded sugarcane stems, I got down low on the pavement to shoot them, only to get up after to find a small bunch of teenagers gathered behind me, peering at the photo on the rear screen of my Nikon... The nearest girl looked at the image, then up at me, and said "why!?"... It was a bit hard to explain, so I showed them a few other pictures on my iPhone, (odd, abstract pictures) and received a group "aaah!" and several nods and smiles of understanding...!
I like my picture anyway... It captures what I wanted it to... The city streets of Da Nang;










Today, Tom and I were up early to make our way 10kms south (by taxi... It's a rest day after all!) to The Marble Mountains.

A very worthwhile trip, we felt... We spent a good 3 hours climbing up and down the many steps and seeing all the caves, various alters and prayer areas where incense and Buddha sculptures stood.

We met a very nice, friendly old auntie who insisted we take lots of incense sticks and place them at many of the Buddha prayer areas... I gave a donation to her, for the upkeep of the area, and she was more than happy to have her picture taken too, smiling a happy, but very black, rotten toothy smile..!














































This afternoon, we are going to be stocking up on some supplies, as we will be riding back inland, heading south-west along the Ho Chi Minh Highway for the next 900 kms, heading down to Ho Chi Minh City.

From what I can see on the map, we have a reasonable chance of some resupply at a town in 130 km's time, but we might not get that far tomorrow, so we might need some tucker for tomorrow night.
After that town, it'll be another 160-180 km's before pretty much anything else, as my maps show a whole lots of nothing... Just beautiful, uncluttered, uninhabited nothing, which is what we love.

I'll try and do some updates from the road as we go.

There's nothing new on the main website yet, as the Internet here is a bit hit and miss... So I hope this update goes ok, given that I've included a fair number of photos... Fingers crossed!

As always, comments and/or emails are always welcome, and very much appreciated...

Until next time...

RWK.

OUT!

Posted using BlogPress from my amazing iPad 2!


Location:Phan Chu Trinh,,Vietnam

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Rehydrating rest stop.

35kms done already, & it's not even 0930...



We've stopped at a nice little café along the roadside to chug down an ICE cold Pepsi... Straight out of the freezer... It was awesome! I then washed that down with a litre of nice cold ice cold H20 too...
60kms to go to our probable planned stop for the night... But if we continue to make good time & the wind stays low, (or even better, becomes a tailwind) we might push on for another 20kms to the next town... We'll see!
Cheers...

RWK & RWT.

-Posted from my amazing iPhone 4!

Location:1A,,Vietnam

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Dining in style.




Before we get a load of emails, comments and complaints that we are not suffering enough, we never claimed to be only roughing it! We are capable of doing so, have done so... And probably will still do so... But when there's a chance for a good meal and nice accommodation, well, yeah, we're damn well gonna take it!

Survival isn't just about filtering dodgy water to make drinkable water, making fire from rubbing 2 sticks, or from catching and killing game for food... Although we can and have done so... It's much more about adapting to your surroundings and using what you have at hand to your advantage...

That now all being said, yeah, the Roadwarriors are livin' it up in a fancy spa resort, and dinner last night was so damn good, we had to take pictures!



I had the FANTASTIC Australian steak, (bloody) and Tom had a huge chunk of grilled snapper... I even had a beer, and slept like a log for a solid, much needed 9 hours.

We'd done some decent KMs the previous few days, and yesterday's ride was long and hot. We had the puncture to deal with, which was a half-hour inconvenience, but the all-day-long persistent 15-20kph headwind that we were always riding into really sapped us... So a big feed and nice bed were very welcome. The complimentary Kimono was quite fetching too, I thought... :o)




Tomorrow we check out and carry on south to Da Nang. We hope to be getting in by mid afternoon in 3 days time, depending on the riding conditions...

More to come from the road.

Cheers!

RWK.

- Posted using BlogPress from my amazing iPad 2!

Location:Nhật Lệ,Dong Hoi,Vietnam

Coke & curious kids.

What a hoot!
We stopped at a small store in a town we were passing though for a much needed ass-break, and to have a nice cold soda... And within minutes, were surrounded by a bunch of well behaved but very curious children...There were two small girls who found Tom quite interesting... One in particular was incredibly taken with him...




She kept walking around him, prodding him a bunch if times, laughed a lot at his tan lines and white skin, and removed his sunglasses to stare at his uncovered face... It was quite strange, but we got a laugh out of it, and the lady who ran the shop thought is was quite amusing too..! :o)

More to come soon...

Cheers,

RWK.
Out.




- Posted using BlogPress from my amazing iPad 2!

The colours of the country

From bike helmets to fishing boats to rice fields... We've been enjoying the variety and colour around us.

(Don't forget, you can click on the photos to open them larger in a new window...)





















- Posted using BlogPress from my amazing iPad 2!

Some happy critters.

For a change, we saw some happier animals the past few days...
Ones that were able to relax, to play, and to not be on tomorrow's menu!

One little scruffy puppy was having a ball, playing with a discarded plastic yoghurt carton:



Toms shoes were another thing to chew on, until Tom picked him up for a belly rub...







The water buffalo that was by the side of the road in his watering hole looked pretty content too.




I'll be posting a few more pix of the colorful sights we've seen shortly.
Cheers!
RWK.
OUT.

- Posted using BlogPress from my amazing iPad 2!